Written by Roger St. John, WWP-19 #1100, 'Little Zephr'
June 2002

West Wight Potter 15 Owners Manual
West Wight Potter 15 Owner's Manual
West Wight Potter 15 Owner's Manual

West Wight Potter 15 Owners Manual

This procedure has two sections. The first section gives instructions for initially rigging the mast. This section includes a description of how to run the halyards (the lines for raising the sails), and how to install the shrouds and stays (the wires that hold the mast up). The second section gives a description of how to raise the mast once all the halyards, stays, and shrouds are connected.

Note: I will assume for this procedure that you have a mast that has all of the hardware on it (cleats, blocks, etc.), but no lines or stays.

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West Wight Potter 15 Owner's Manual

Install the Shrouds and Stays:

Note: It is probably easiest to rig the shrouds and stays with the mast in the trailering position on the boat. In these instructions I will assume the mast is here.

The shrouds and stays (wires) approximately these lengths. The length is for just the wire; it does not include the length of turnbuckles, etc.:

Lower shrouds -- 127 inches. There are two lower shrouds. They connect to the middle of the mast and one goes to each side of the boat.
Upper shrouds -- 221 inches. There are two upper shrouds. They connect to the mast about 4 1/2 feet from the top. One goes to each side of the boat.
Forestay -- 225 inches. There is one forestay. It connects to the mast at the same place as the upper shrouds. It attaches to the bow of the boat when the mast is up.
Backstay -- Around 25 feet (300 inches). This is an OPTIONAL stay. If you have one, it connects to a bracket off the top of the mast and goes to a bracket at the back of the boat. The bracket is located a bit off-center on the transom.

If the shrouds and stays are not connected to the mast, then locate these parts (See Fig 2, Fig 3, and 4):

Two large bolts with ny-lock nuts that go through the mast. If one bolt is longer than the other, then use the longer one in the upper location.
Two tangs for the forestay.
One small bolt or pin that attaches the forestay and jib halyard pulley to the forestay tangs.
Four turnbuckles with 8 pins and 16 cotter rings for the upper and lower shrouds. Quick-release pins are not used here.
One shroud adjuster or turnbuckle, and two pins (including one quick-release pin if you have it) for the forestay.
Backstay equipment. Sorry, I don't have the factor backstay so I don't know exactly what there is here, but is should be something like another shroud adjuster and associated pins (quick release pins should not be needed here).

Do these steps to connect the lower shrouds (See Fig 1 and 2):

Take the tang on one of the lower shrouds and slip it on the bolt.
Put the bolt through the hole that is in the middle of the mast. The bolt can go either way; it doesn't matter which side of the mast the nut is on.
Put the tang from the other lower shroud on the end of the bolt and install the ny-lock nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUT. Drive the nut on just far enough to remove most of the slop between the tangs and the mast. The tangs should still rotate freely. Of you over-tighten the nut, it could dent and weaken the mast.
Use a pin and cotter ring to attach a turnbuckle to the bottom end of each lower shroud.

FIG 2

Use a pin and cotter ring to attach the turnbuckles for the LOWER SHROUDS to the FORWARD HOLE in the chain-plate (one on each side of the boat).
Note: I prefer to have the cotter rings on the inside. The jib sheets catch them if they are on the outside. But, this shouldn't matter, because you SHOULD wrap these with rigging tape after you have tuned the rig.

Do these steps to connect the upper shrouds (See Fig 3 and Fig 2):

Note: The upper shrouds install just like the lower shrouds except you must add the forestay tangs.

Take the tang on one of the upper shrouds and slip it on the bolt. Then slid one forestay tang on the bolt.
Put the bolt through the hole that is 4 1/2 feet down from the top of the mast. The bolt can go either way; it doesn't matter which side of the mast the nut is on.
Put the second forestay tang on the bolt. Put the tang from the other upper shroud on the end of the bolt and install the ny-lock nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUT. Drive the nut on just far enough to remove most of the slop between the tangs and the mast. The tangs should still rotate freely. Of you over-tighten the nut, it could dent and weaken the mast.
Use a pin and cotter ring to attach a turnbuckle to the bottom end of each upper shroud.
Use a pin and cotter ring to attach the turnbuckles for the UPPER SHROUDS to the AFT HOLE in the chain-plate (one on each side of the boat).

Do these steps to Install the forestay (See Fig 3 and Fig 4)

Put the bolt or pin through one of the forestay tangs.
Put the forestay and the jip halyard pulley on the bolt. The pulley can be installed on either side of the forestay, it doesn't matter.
Put the bolt or pin through the other forestay tang and then install the ny-lock nut or a washer and cotter pin.
Use a pin and cotter ring to connect the shroud adjuster (or turnbuckle) to the bottom end of the forestay. If you have a shroud adjuster, connect the forestay to the end-most hole on the end with a bunch of holes. Put a quick-release pin in the single hole at the other end. This pin will be used when you raise the mast. The bottom end of the forestay is not connected until the mast is up.

Do these steps to install the backstay (the backstay is optional, your boat may not have one) (See Fig 5):

Use a bolt or pin to connect the backstay to the bracket (backstay crane) that extends off the back of the mast. If you have them, use plastic spacers or a few stainless-steel washers to keep the backstay centered on the bolt/pin.
Use a pi

Written by Roger St. John, WWP-19 #1100, 'Little Zephr' June 2002